4 posts tagged surfing
As the sea breeze gently blew through his hair he looked up from his book with deep blue eyes. Each colored like blown glass evenly wrapped around a fading ocean, sucking in to the centered black hole of no return. Sharing similarities in behavior to a 35 mm lens, they collect and focus all light reflecting off of each and every molecule of the earth’s surface. Exported from a ball of burning gaseous material floating weightlessly at the tip of our galaxy. Each particle of light filtered through the ozone, a surface protecting all life from a scorching death, moving at speeds incomprehensible to the human senses. Effortlessly photosynthesizing those specimens that purify our most important element, oxygen, the air that we breathe. An element only truly appreciated while surrendering to the mother sea, tumbling uncontrollably beneath the immense power of a fallen set. Deep beneath the white water you lie trying not to panic. What is up? What is down? Will there be another beauty waiting to pound you as you arise to recapture life? Oxygen expands in your lungs, working overtime to escape and find itself free again. Free from its master, your body, to whom it is enslaved. Forced to travel down highwayesque blood streams to work for your muscles. Firmly you grip your life line, a flimsy, 6 foot plastic chord (a pathway to your escape) guiding you to that which thinks but has no brain. Your board, always rising at times that your mind cannot decipher direction, nor fathom how it can go about finding it. It makes you wonder whether beings with minds are undoubtedly superior, or if it is only a fallacy perceived among homo sapiens.
As a mirrored reflection of his love, the ocean, swept across a glimmer in his eye. His mind returned to senses from the blurred state it had entered as it wandered deep into his imagination. Relaxation overwhelmed his body (still thawing out from his early rise from bed) as he gazed with fascination over the hypnotizing elegance of the South Jersey shore he had grown to love. The waves were rarely consistent, and the water always cold, but these waves were his. They made him who he is today as a surfer. These waves instilled in him a a love and a passion for a sport that would inevitably define who he is, as well as who he will become. Each trip cross country and overseas was inspired by one source. The birthplace of his infatuation to become one with the mother ocean. With every session, many injuries as well as philosophies had been acquired. Nonetheless, with each arid mouthful of that sweet elixir drawn straight from the fountain, he found his youth again. Preserving mind and body with each session, keeping them intact with a time when age created no resistance. It was then that he realized that with every breathe he grew older, but thanks to the strength of his passion this process was coerced to move slower. In days far beyond those of his the average man, a time will come when he will lose his ability to stand. Nonetheless, until his death his memories will forever flourish. Each cell in his mind will remind his muscles and soul of past feeling. Until the end of his time he will surf within his imagination, because just as Beethoven heard music after he went deaf, a surfer will never forget those feelings of dropping in, cutting back, or even getting wet.